*Most pictures should be clickable*


Here is where our throttle cable hooks to the carb. It is in the origion place for the throttle cable but since we didn't have a end on the cable we just made a loop in the cable and put a bolt through the loop. to make the loop we bought some alumnium wire clamps. You just smash the aluminium onto both pieces of cable and it holds it tight, you can get them at menards or lowes.


THe 1/8 SS cable then goes from the carb. to an eye bolt in a lever. We used this for two reasons. 1) the bike brake cable didn't have enough travel to pull the carb. to full throttle, and 2) bending the go cart throttle cable around and under the engine caused to much friction and you couldn't move the throttle without a big hammer LOL. So we made the lever out of a piece of conduit and put a piviot point further away from the carb. connection than the go cart throttle cable conection. This way when the bike brake is pulled to full throttle is (which is 1" of travel) it moves the carb to full throttle which was around 1.25" of travel.



Here is were the go cart throttle cable connects to the bottom of the lever.


Next we had to figure out a way of holding the cable without it slipping. So I made and Aluminium "L" braket and drilled a hole in it big enough for the cable to fit through, then I cut a slit from the outside of the bracket to the hole so we could slid the cable out easly. Then I took a piece of gas line that fit over the cable and slit it. then I slid the gas line over the cable and used 2 hose clamps to hold the gas line to the cable. this way the gas line hits the Aluminium braket and the cable can't slip, and the gas line can be moved up and down the cable to ajust out slack. Also you can adjust out the slack with the two eye bolts that are in the lever.


The go cart throttle cable wasn't long enough to go up to the bike brake so I had to somehow add another cable to get the right lenght. What I did was take a 1"x1/8" piece of steel and bend it to the shape shown above. Then I drilled a hole in each end and cut a slot in it like the "L" braket. THen I could slid the two cables in and use one of the aluminium cable claps to hold the two cables together and then use the gas line and hose clamp method to keep the cables from slipping. This is another place where slace can be adjusted out by moving the gas line on either cable. The cable going from the connector to the bike brake was a bike brake cable. This way the cable had the end to fit the bike brake and we didn't have to mess with it.


Here is the cable connected to the bike brake. So far this throttle set up has worked perfectly and it hasn't loosend up or locked up at all. Go back to my main UH-18sp page.